Monday, June 10, 2013

Dangerous and underpaid: Working in the Moskitia

   I’m sitting at this moment in a Moskitia hotel frequented almost exclusively by scary, armed men in the cocaine-distribution business, in a town that even the more adventurous guide books tell you to avoid. The bar downstairs is blasting narco-ballads, the deceptively cheery music that relates hair-raising stories of life in the illegal-drug trade.
   The presence of scary, armed men is great fodder for blog posts for travelers who live elsewhere, but it’s fairly unsettling for the 67,000 people who live and work in Gracias a Dios, the watery, wondrous Honduras state that borders Nicaragua. And the cocaine traffickers are by no means the only difficulty here.
  There’s no electricity anywhere in the Moskitia, so keeping the generator running (or accessing medical care, going to the bank, buying clothes or any other creature comfort) means a boat ride of anywhere from 25 minutes to five hours, depending how deep into the region’s many lagoons you happen to be, and an eight-hour round trip on a rough and dangerous road that’s in constant risk of washing out in the heavy rains.
   There’s food, but you’d better like fish, chicken, yucca and coconut. There are amazing birds, but an equally impressive number of mosquitos and other biting bugs, especially in the June-July rainy season. (Damn.)
   In short, the Moskitia is a beautiful, complicated, challenging place, with an air of menace overlying everything now that the narco-traficantes have claimed the region as their own.
   One of the towns where my organization works has recently fallen under the control of a Nicaraguan heavyweight, who apparently has ordered the village to observe a 6 p.m. curfew and surrounded the town with armed men. People learn quickly around these parts not to ask questions about who owns the beautiful new mansion on the lagoon, or the boat with two gigantic outboard motors. Best not to know.
   This is my second time here, and once again I’m feeling a mix of exhilaration at the natural beauty and a sense of constant alertness lest I get on the wrong side of the wrong person, or inadvertently turn my birding binoculars or camera in a direction I shouldn’t be looking.
   And I’m just passing through. My co-workers live and work here, in circumstances that are way less comfortable than anything I’ll experience during my nine-day visit. I’ve got a king-size bed in a roomy if somewhat unnerving hotel; they’ve got a foam mattress on the floor of their tiny office, where four of them live communally for at least three weeks of every month. I don’t mind working through the occasional weekend, but they do it all the time, saving up days off so they’ve got enough time to make the long journey out to visit their families.
   I’ve got considerably more appreciation for Canadian work practices and labour law since coming to Honduras. Low pay, exploitive practices, no job security, armed people who just might shoot you, a constant risk of not getting paid – these are regular experiences for the majority of workers. The situation in the Moskitia does kick things up a notch, mind you.
   The work that my Honduran compañeros are doing in this wild and woolly region would likely come with big pay and great benefits back in my homeland, what with all the risks it entails. One woman working with a government forestry organization here recently had the trauma of a drunk narco-traficante putting a gun to her head, and then the additional trauma of watching the two military guards she travels with kill the guy.
    But despite considerable dangers and deprivations, my co-workers make $1,000 or so a month. They’re also on the hook for the considerable transport costs to get in and out of the Moskitia, which are at least $50 every time. 
   As for benefits, I’m sure it would be like telling a fairy tale if I ever described a typical Canadian benefits package to any Honduran. I remember griping when I was back in my journalism days at the shrinking amount available for massages. Man, that seems petty now. The fellow who runs the swimming pool in Copan Ruinas where Paul and I go for a leisurely day sometimes hasn’t had a day off – not one – in the last two years. He’d like to quit, but is scared he’ll end up with no job at all.
   So the lesson is: Thank your lucky stars that for whatever reason, you’re living and working in a wealthy country where you might feel hard done by from time to time, but you’re not. Hug your boss and your union leader, and think good thoughts about whoever it was who lobbied for employment standards. Reflect on your grandparents and great-grandparents, and all the sacrifices they made to ensure future generations of Canadian workers could feel miffed when their company-funded massages cost more than they’d expected.
    Turn your lights on and off and marvel at how easy it is. Sit in your big, comfy car and feel that smooth asphalt below your tires. Celebrate that the gun culture has never really caught on in Canada.
   And if you’re using cocaine, why not switch to something homegrown and save some lives? You’re making things crazy down here.

80 comments:

Mr. Beer N. Hockey said...

Exceptional journalism. Sounds like Hemingway would have shied away from the place.

Anonymous said...

It's good to hear from you Jody. I was wondering how things were going on your trip. All the best, Deb Nilsen

Rabin Gurung said...

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TrekNp said...

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Encounters Nepal said...

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Boundless Adventure said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Mt. Everest base camp Trek said...

Annapurna Sanctuary Trek or Annapurna base camp trek
Annapurna Base Camp is one of the best treks of Nepal as it is the combination of splendid natural scenery with the blend of cultures. The major attractions of this place are the Annapurna Himal including Himchuli, Annapurna South, Annapurna, Annapurna II, Annapurna III and Machhapuchhre and many more.
The terraced farmland above Pokhara and the pastures, the deep forests of oak, bamboo and rhododendron provides an alluring sensation. The view of Dhaulagiri and Kali Gandaki is even more appealing. The visit to the inner sanctuary of Annapurna gives you the panoramic views of ten peaks over 6000m. The Natural hot spring at Jhinudanda is quite relaxing.
The ABC is suitable for any trekker who has enough stamina to walk few hours a day. Previous trekking experience is not necessary and one does not need to be super fit. Daily exercise prior to the trip is strongly recommended. February to June and September to December is the favorable time to enjoy this trek.
Trip Facts
• Trekking Duration: 14 Days
• Grade: Medium-Hard
• Maximum Altitude: 5424 m
• Best Seasons: March - Jun, Oct - Dec
• Type of Trek: Lodges / Tea House
• Commences At: Kathmandu
• Ending At: Kathmandu
Annapurna base camp Trek or Annapurna Sanctuary Trek Day By Day Itinerary



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Mt. Everest base camp Trek said...

Welcome To Nepal For Trekking In Everest, Annapurna and Langtang...
Dear Travellers,
!!Namaste and warm Greetings from Himalayan Country Nepal!!


My name is Sanjib Adhikari. As an independent trekking guide and tour operator in Nepal, I would like to introduce myself to you.
I was born and grown up in the rugged and remote district in the Central Himalayan region. I started my career in the adventure tourism at the very young age after completing my high school level studies, working for different trekking companies for seven years in different capacities sometimes as porter, assistant guide and now working as an Independent trekking guide. I have already obtained trekking guide license from the ministry of tourism, government of Nepal.

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Dharel Ajay said...

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Anjan Tamang said...

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Adventure Nepal said...

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Jul 27, 2014

Annapurna Region Trek
The Annapurna Region lies towards the north of central Nepal. The region has been recognized as one of the world’s best trekking trails, according to a recent survey by Modern Maturity (USA). The region is popular for the world’s deepest gorge (Kali Gandaki) and the highest lake (Tilicho), situated at an altitude of 4,919m.
This is the most popular trekking zone in Nepal. One can enjoy nature’s beauty walking through rhododendron forests over the foothills of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. The region is popular for the world’s deepest gorge (Kali Gandaki) and the highest lake (Tilicho) situated at the altitude of 4,919m.
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Mt. Everest base camp Trek said...

Annapurna Sanctuary Trek - 14 Days

People are inquisitive to travel in the midst of nature. It helps to explore lots of hidden secrets of the nature as well as to acquire the experience of the lifetime. Similarly, the trekking to the Annapurna Sanctuary 4,130 m is the chance to discover a blend of the unique natural treasures well as high cultural diversity of the Annapurna region.
The trek is associated with the Annapurna Sanctuary, the area which is a home to the diverse wildlife, flora and fauna. The Annapurna Sanctuary , This must papule see the real gurung culture and mager more largest ethnic group

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Yam Panta said...

Definitely, Nepal is a dreamland for many adventure, highland trek and enormous legendry culture. Many hundred thousands of tourist are visiting in Nepal for Himalaya trekking, peak climbing,mountain expedition, sun rise/sunset views hiking trip, white water adventure, wild life safaris and many adventure sports. Although, we are A One Nepal Trek Company is local based pioneer trekking agency of Nepal. We have emotionally operating a best delightful mountain holiday in Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan for our valued clients as per them willing with reasonable cost/price. All managed by well-known professional team, our Trekking Guides/Porters, /Tours Guides are fully trained, rich experience of service field and license holder. Surely, we well have be ever attention for your pleasure holiday in Nepal, and long term relationship as a friend. we are regulary promote this items ghorepani poon hill trek, annapurna base camp trek, upper mustang trek, Manaslu circuit trek, Manaslu tsum valley trek, langtang valley trek, langtang tamang heritage trail, langtang goshaikunda lake trek, Helambu circuit trek, everest base camp trek, gokya lake trek, everest chola pass trek, jiri to Everest base camp trek, And other Adventure Peak Climbing in Nepal as Island peak climbing, Mera Peak climbing, Lobuche Peak climbing & Other packages tours in Nepal.
Best regard by Trekking in Nepal

Rabin Gurung said...

Shiva Excursion Pvt. Ltd. is Dynamically Design by choice of Customer Activities in Nepal. Local Base License holder Trekking Company & 15 Years Experiences Trekking tour Seller with more Adventure Activities Operated Trekking agency in Nepal.
The top ten High Light full Board Package Activities As Annapurna Base Camp Trek, Ghorepani Poon Hill Trek, Annapurna round trek, Nar Phu Valley Trek, Upper Mustang trek, Manaslu circuit trek, Manaslu tsum valley trek, Ganesh himal Trek, Ruby Valley trek, Langtang valley trek, Langtang tamang Heritage trail, goshainkunda Lake pass, Helambu circuit trek, Everest base Camp Trek most challenging high passes as Everest Chola & Renjola Pass, Everest Three high pass, Ganjala Pass trek. Other Wilderness less touristic area as Kanchenjunga Trek, Makalu Base Camp trek & most high Light Adventure Peak Climbing in Nepal as Island Peak Climbing, Mera Peak Climbing & Loboje Peak Climbing.
The rare with wildlife activities tour in Nepal, Kathmandu to Chitwan jungle seafaring & more touring programs Manage by Shiva Excursion Pvt. Ltd.
Best Regard by
trekking in nepal

Arjun Simkhada said...

Trekking in Nepal…Family Adventure style
The towering Himalayas are, to many travellers’ minds, the chief reason for visiting Nepal. The country tumbles steeply down from the 800km stretch of the Himalayan battlements that forms its northern border, and can claim no fewer than eight of the world’s ten highest peaks – including, of course, Everest, the highest of them all. The mountains are more than just physically astonishing, however. The cultures of highland-dwelling Nepalese peoples are rich and fascinating, and the relaxed, companionable spirit of trekking life is an attraction in itself. The Himalayas have long exerted a powerful spiritual pull, too. In Hindu mythology, the mountains are where gods go to contemplate, while the Sherpas and other mountain peoples hold certain peaks to be the very embodiment of deities.
Most visitors to mountain areas stick to a few well-established trekking routes. They have good reasons for doing so: the classic trails of the Everest region with its famous trails like Everest Base camp trek and the 3 high passes are both mind blowing ventures and highly popular in the world. And Annapurna regions are so popular because they offer close-up views of the very highest peaks; this includes Annapurna 1 & 2, fishtail peak and Ganesh Himal trek. Famous treks like the Ghorepani Poon Hill Trek, Annapurna Base camp trek & the Annapurna Circuit trek are some of the most famous on earth. Dramatic scenery and fascinating local cultures are most known in this area. Lodges on the main trails – some as sophisticated as ski chalets, these days – make it possible to go without carrying a lot of gear or learning Nepali, and without spending too much money, either. While trekking, you’ll likely eat and sleep for $20–30 a day. For those who put a high priority on getting away from it all, there are plenty of less-developed routes, of course, and simply going out of season or taking a side-route off the main trail makes a huge difference.
The Helambu and Langtang regions are less striking but conveniently close to Kathmandu, attracting a little fewer than ten percent of trekkers. The Langtang valley trek & the Ganja-La pass are known trails in this area. This leaves vast areas of eastern and far western Nepal relatively untrodden by visitors. To hike in these areas you’ll need either to get set for camping and carry your own supplies, and live like a local, or pay to join an organized trek with tents and accept the compromises that go along with that.
With a good operator, you can anywhere in the wild. A Great Himalayan Trail now runs the length of highland Nepal – though it will be for some time, if ever, before such a route will be serviced by lodges.
Treks in remote far eastern and far western Nepal are mostly restricted to two kinds of globe trotters, both adventurous in their own way. The majority come on organized camping treks with agencies – in fact, this is obligatory for those areas that require a permit. The minority are independent trekkers prepared either to carry tents and food or negotiate with porters, or to seek food and lodging in local homes and basic lodges. Some great camping outdoors include the Manaslu circuit Trek, Upper Mustang trek the Dhaulagiri circuit, Rara lake trek and the great Kangchenjunga trek, both north and south.

Anjan Tamang said...

Amazing Annapurna Base Camp Trek
, Everest Base Camp Trek and
Trekking in Nepal.

Anjan Tamang said...

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Anjan Tamang said...

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mera peak climbing and
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Yam Panta said...


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/Trekking Agency in Nepal and
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Yam Panta said...


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Yam Panta said...


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Manaslu Tsum Valley Trek in Nepal

Nepal Wide Adventure said...


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Nepal Wide Adventure said...



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Annapurna Base Camp trek,
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and
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Nepal Wide Adventure said...


The special package
Upper Mustang trek,
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and
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Nepal Wide Adventure said...


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Ghorepani poon hill trek,
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Jomsom Muktinath trek in Nepal.

Nepal Wide Adventure said...



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Annaprna Circuit trek,
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Annapurna Nar Phu Valley Trek in Nepal.

Nepal Wide Adventure said...


Trekking Peak Climbing as
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Arjun Simkhada said...


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Arjun Simkhada said...


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Annapurna Base Camp Trek,
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Arjun Simkhada said...


Restricted trekking route
Upper Mustang Trek,
Manaslu Circuit Trekand
Kanchenjunga trek in Nepal.

Arjun Simkhada said...


Short Trekking Route as
Ghorepani Poon Hill trek,
Langtang Valley trekand
Helambu Circuit trek in Nepal.

Arjun Simkhada said...


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Langtang Gosaikunda Trek,
Everest Gokyo Lakeand
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Arjun Simkhada said...


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Encounters Nepal said...

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Encounters Nepal said...

Short Trekking Route as
Ghorepani Poon hill trea,
langtang valley trek and
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Encounters Nepal said...

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Upper Mustang Trek,
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Encounters Nepal said...

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Encounters Nepal said...

Long trekking route as
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Encounters Nepal said...

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Mera Peak Climbing and
Lobuche Peak Climbing

Ful Maya Gurung said...


The local Trekking Agency in Nepal, as
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Nepal Government License holder Trekking Company in Nepal.

Ful Maya Gurung said...


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Ful Maya Gurung said...



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Ful Maya Gurung said...



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Ful Maya Gurung said...


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Island Peak Climbing,
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Ful Maya Gurung said...


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Ful Maya Gurung said...


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Sappa Lama Gomso said...


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and Local Trekking Company in Nepal and
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Sappa Lama Gomso said...


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Sappa Lama Gomso said...


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Sappa Lama Gomso said...


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Sappa Lama Gomso said...


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everest Panorama Trek,
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Sappa Lama Gomso said...


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Sappa Lama Gomso said...


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Island Peak Climbing,
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Arjun Nepal said...


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Island Peak climbing,
Mera Peak Climbing and
Lobuche Peak Climbing
in Nepal.

Arjun Nepal said...


Short Trekking Route
Ghorepani Poon Hill trek,
Langtang Valley Trek and
Helambu Circuit Trek in Nepal.

Arjun Nepal said...


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Nar Phu Valley Trek,
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Arjun Nepal said...


and part of trekking and tour as
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Arjun Nepal said...


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Yam Panta said...


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Yam Panta said...


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langtang valley trek in Nepal.

Yam Panta said...


A One Nepal offer 2017 as Special Remote Treking route
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Yam Panta said...


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Yam Panta said...


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Yam Panta said...

A One Nepal Trek Pvt. Ltd. (your Trekking and Tour consultant since many years ago) is an ecologically perceptive Trekking Agency in Nepal specializing in giving you nepal, tibet , bhutan, the manner you want to peer it , also owned & managed by means of nearby experts Nepal Adventure Activities organization advocated through lonely planet Nepal journey guide e-book, lonely planet hiking in Nepal Himalaya ebook & trip marketing consultant. A One Nepal Trek Pvt. Ltd. & day trip is an Trekking Agency in Nepal, established with the aid of a crew of specialists worried tourism considering a long time for committed provide the provider a home away from domestic. a group of hospitable and expert geared up to welcome and escort you through recreational activities inclusive of trekking in Nepal, Nepal tour package, nepal journey bundle excursions, nepal trekking tour, Nepal Adventure in Himalaya, nepal top hiking, nepal air ticketing, nepal river rafting, nepal jungle safari, nepal sightseeing tour, excursion in nepal, kathmandu valley sightseeing, Nepal resort reservation, tibet tour, tibet trekking, bhutan tour, bhutan trekking.
Local Trekking Company in Nepal established by Yam Bahadur Pant has over 20 years and reasonable cost and Custom Itinerary to All Valuable clients in Nepal. A One Nepal offer many type of Activities as Annapurna base camp, Everest Base Camp, Ghorepani Poon Hill, Upper Mustang, manaslu Circuit, Langtang Valley, Island Peak, Mera Peak and Many Others Activities in Nepal.

Sappa Lama Gomso said...

Nepal Annapurna Base Camp Trek is among the most popular walking tour in the Himalayan world.
The ranges of Annapurna base camp trek is one of the most popular walking tour in the Himalayan world. Trail literally brings you face to face with an eight thousand highest Peak– for a moderate-difficult trek; this is one of best incredible! The fascinating Annapurna ranges massif includes the world’s tenth highest peak in Himalaya. Annapurna (8,091 m) I hold a fatal attraction for mountaineers of world. This mountain has the highest fatality ratio among the eight thou sanders peak. This formidable mountain aura apart, its base camp (ABC) trek holds several treasures for the mountain lover world.
Annapurna Mountain views that leave you spellbound
The Annapurna mountain range whets your appetite for mountain views front-right from Pokhara City. This is first even before you start the trek. At Ghandruk village, you see distinct views of Machapuchare(6993m) Annapurna South (7219m) and Hiunchuli (6441m). Views of different peaks of the world Annapurna massif and Machapuchare stay with you all the way till Sinuwa Hill. The tip of Holy Machapuchare teases you at Dovan (2600m). As you burst out of the bamboo forest past Himalaya and Deurali pass, Machapuchare appears again in its full glory. Machapuchare, the ‘fish tailed mountain’, in Nepalese is revered by the Nepalese people for its exquisite beauty. Legendry believed to be one of the homes of Hindi Lord (Shiva). This holy mountian has never been officially summitted! As you touch down the Machapuchare base camp, in addition to Machapuchare, you can see massif Annapurna I, Annapurna South, Gangapurna and Hiunchuli Peak up close. The Annapurna Base Camp is a small cluster of six-seven lodges opposite the ridge of Annapurna glacier. As you look around up from the edge of the glacier, you come face to face with the Annapurna massif ranges. Annapurna South, I, III and Gangapurna, with Gandharvachuli and Machapuchare are all there to meet your unleash gaze when your eyes rest upon them. Trekking into the forests of the Annapurna Conservation Area The trail takes you through a variety of vegetation while trekking from Ghandruk village to Chhomrong you are surrounded by Nepal's national flower (rhododendron), fern and wild bamboo. Once you cross Sinuwa Hill to enter the narrow valley of Annapurna sanctuary, the forest becomes densely. Tallest oak trees become prominent here. As you move further up towards Deurali pass, the thick forests give way to tall grasses. Around this area, you will find trees of thick bark called Daphne. This is used by local people to make paper. These trees are commonly found around estern part of nepal and india border as well. Closer to Machapuchare base camp (3700m), the terrain turns into Alpine. You see the patches of grass amidst boulders. There are also flowering plants lining the trail at this section too.
The Annapurna base camp trail has 3 sections through forest that is so dense that sometime sunlight barely seeps through. The first one starts right after the villages around Chomrung and extends till New Bridge. On the trail from Sinuwa, you will hear the Modi River roaring past right next to you. But the trees around are so densely that you can’t really see the river flow. The third stretch is after Sinuwa and goes all the way to Dovan via Bamboo. The beauty of this trek is that you walk through these forests twice.
The Annapurna Base Camp Trek and region is nestled in the 7,629 sq km Annapurna Conservation Area and home to 1,228 species of flowering plants, more than 100 mammals, 474 birds, 33 reptiles with 22 amphibians. If you’re lucky you might spot an exotic bird or even called marmot.

High 5 Adventures said...

The high 5 Adventures is Expedition Company in Nepal. So Mr Narbin Magar has been selected for the All Trekking peaks and Expedition leading since 2005 to till Local Base Expedition Agency in Nepal. Most of the Challenging Trekking Agency which is popular peak Climbing, Trekking in Nepal and Expedition in Nepal, the High 5 Adventures Company all Staff are has been trained Mountaineering and enough Strong Local guide and Climbing Sherpa’s. Everest Expedition Company is one of the most challenging and high light Trekking routes in Nepal. Everest base camp, Langtang Trekking, manaslu trekking, Annapurna base camp, Annapurna Circuit, Dhaulagiri round and many others Trekking routes in Nepal. The part of the Peak climbing and Expedition is more attractive and Adventures Expedition in Nepal.