Monday, June 10, 2013

Dangerous and underpaid: Working in the Moskitia

   I’m sitting at this moment in a Moskitia hotel frequented almost exclusively by scary, armed men in the cocaine-distribution business, in a town that even the more adventurous guide books tell you to avoid. The bar downstairs is blasting narco-ballads, the deceptively cheery music that relates hair-raising stories of life in the illegal-drug trade.
   The presence of scary, armed men is great fodder for blog posts for travelers who live elsewhere, but it’s fairly unsettling for the 67,000 people who live and work in Gracias a Dios, the watery, wondrous Honduras state that borders Nicaragua. And the cocaine traffickers are by no means the only difficulty here.
  There’s no electricity anywhere in the Moskitia, so keeping the generator running (or accessing medical care, going to the bank, buying clothes or any other creature comfort) means a boat ride of anywhere from 25 minutes to five hours, depending how deep into the region’s many lagoons you happen to be, and an eight-hour round trip on a rough and dangerous road that’s in constant risk of washing out in the heavy rains.
   There’s food, but you’d better like fish, chicken, yucca and coconut. There are amazing birds, but an equally impressive number of mosquitos and other biting bugs, especially in the June-July rainy season. (Damn.)
   In short, the Moskitia is a beautiful, complicated, challenging place, with an air of menace overlying everything now that the narco-traficantes have claimed the region as their own.
   One of the towns where my organization works has recently fallen under the control of a Nicaraguan heavyweight, who apparently has ordered the village to observe a 6 p.m. curfew and surrounded the town with armed men. People learn quickly around these parts not to ask questions about who owns the beautiful new mansion on the lagoon, or the boat with two gigantic outboard motors. Best not to know.
   This is my second time here, and once again I’m feeling a mix of exhilaration at the natural beauty and a sense of constant alertness lest I get on the wrong side of the wrong person, or inadvertently turn my birding binoculars or camera in a direction I shouldn’t be looking.
   And I’m just passing through. My co-workers live and work here, in circumstances that are way less comfortable than anything I’ll experience during my nine-day visit. I’ve got a king-size bed in a roomy if somewhat unnerving hotel; they’ve got a foam mattress on the floor of their tiny office, where four of them live communally for at least three weeks of every month. I don’t mind working through the occasional weekend, but they do it all the time, saving up days off so they’ve got enough time to make the long journey out to visit their families.
   I’ve got considerably more appreciation for Canadian work practices and labour law since coming to Honduras. Low pay, exploitive practices, no job security, armed people who just might shoot you, a constant risk of not getting paid – these are regular experiences for the majority of workers. The situation in the Moskitia does kick things up a notch, mind you.
   The work that my Honduran compaƱeros are doing in this wild and woolly region would likely come with big pay and great benefits back in my homeland, what with all the risks it entails. One woman working with a government forestry organization here recently had the trauma of a drunk narco-traficante putting a gun to her head, and then the additional trauma of watching the two military guards she travels with kill the guy.
    But despite considerable dangers and deprivations, my co-workers make $1,000 or so a month. They’re also on the hook for the considerable transport costs to get in and out of the Moskitia, which are at least $50 every time. 
   As for benefits, I’m sure it would be like telling a fairy tale if I ever described a typical Canadian benefits package to any Honduran. I remember griping when I was back in my journalism days at the shrinking amount available for massages. Man, that seems petty now. The fellow who runs the swimming pool in Copan Ruinas where Paul and I go for a leisurely day sometimes hasn’t had a day off – not one – in the last two years. He’d like to quit, but is scared he’ll end up with no job at all.
   So the lesson is: Thank your lucky stars that for whatever reason, you’re living and working in a wealthy country where you might feel hard done by from time to time, but you’re not. Hug your boss and your union leader, and think good thoughts about whoever it was who lobbied for employment standards. Reflect on your grandparents and great-grandparents, and all the sacrifices they made to ensure future generations of Canadian workers could feel miffed when their company-funded massages cost more than they’d expected.
    Turn your lights on and off and marvel at how easy it is. Sit in your big, comfy car and feel that smooth asphalt below your tires. Celebrate that the gun culture has never really caught on in Canada.
   And if you’re using cocaine, why not switch to something homegrown and save some lives? You’re making things crazy down here.

11 comments:

Mr. Beer N. Hockey said...

Exceptional journalism. Sounds like Hemingway would have shied away from the place.

Anonymous said...

It's good to hear from you Jody. I was wondering how things were going on your trip. All the best, Deb Nilsen

Boundless Adventure said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Unknown said...

Annapurna Sanctuary Trek or Annapurna base camp trek
Annapurna Base Camp is one of the best treks of Nepal as it is the combination of splendid natural scenery with the blend of cultures. The major attractions of this place are the Annapurna Himal including Himchuli, Annapurna South, Annapurna, Annapurna II, Annapurna III and Machhapuchhre and many more.
The terraced farmland above Pokhara and the pastures, the deep forests of oak, bamboo and rhododendron provides an alluring sensation. The view of Dhaulagiri and Kali Gandaki is even more appealing. The visit to the inner sanctuary of Annapurna gives you the panoramic views of ten peaks over 6000m. The Natural hot spring at Jhinudanda is quite relaxing.
The ABC is suitable for any trekker who has enough stamina to walk few hours a day. Previous trekking experience is not necessary and one does not need to be super fit. Daily exercise prior to the trip is strongly recommended. February to June and September to December is the favorable time to enjoy this trek.
Trip Facts
• Trekking Duration: 14 Days
• Grade: Medium-Hard
• Maximum Altitude: 5424 m
• Best Seasons: March - Jun, Oct - Dec
• Type of Trek: Lodges / Tea House
• Commences At: Kathmandu
• Ending At: Kathmandu
Annapurna base camp Trek or Annapurna Sanctuary Trek Day By Day Itinerary



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http://www.nepalguideinfo.com
Email-:sanjib-adhikari@hotmail.com
Myfacebook: https://www.facebook.com/sanjib.adhikari

Unknown said...

Welcome To Nepal For Trekking In Everest, Annapurna and Langtang...
Dear Travellers,
!!Namaste and warm Greetings from Himalayan Country Nepal!!


My name is Sanjib Adhikari. As an independent trekking guide and tour operator in Nepal, I would like to introduce myself to you.
I was born and grown up in the rugged and remote district in the Central Himalayan region. I started my career in the adventure tourism at the very young age after completing my high school level studies, working for different trekking companies for seven years in different capacities sometimes as porter, assistant guide and now working as an Independent trekking guide. I have already obtained trekking guide license from the ministry of tourism, government of Nepal.

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Unknown said...

Annapurna base camp trekking
Jul 27, 2014

Annapurna Region Trek
The Annapurna Region lies towards the north of central Nepal. The region has been recognized as one of the world’s best trekking trails, according to a recent survey by Modern Maturity (USA). The region is popular for the world’s deepest gorge (Kali Gandaki) and the highest lake (Tilicho), situated at an altitude of 4,919m.
This is the most popular trekking zone in Nepal. One can enjoy nature’s beauty walking through rhododendron forests over the foothills of the Annapurna and Dhaulagiri ranges. The region is popular for the world’s deepest gorge (Kali Gandaki) and the highest lake (Tilicho) situated at the altitude of 4,919m.
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Unknown said...

Annapurna Sanctuary Trek - 14 Days

People are inquisitive to travel in the midst of nature. It helps to explore lots of hidden secrets of the nature as well as to acquire the experience of the lifetime. Similarly, the trekking to the Annapurna Sanctuary 4,130 m is the chance to discover a blend of the unique natural treasures well as high cultural diversity of the Annapurna region.
The trek is associated with the Annapurna Sanctuary, the area which is a home to the diverse wildlife, flora and fauna. The Annapurna Sanctuary , This must papule see the real gurung culture and mager more largest ethnic group

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Unknown said...


Light Trekking route as
Langtang Gosaikunda Trek,
Everest Gokyo Lakeand
Manaslu Tsum Valley trek in Nepal.

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