June 12, 2013
Sure, it's pretty here, but not yet ready for tourists |
Day 6 here in the
Moskitia, and I’m bored dead. You don’t know what you’ve got ‘til it’s gone, as
good old Joni once sang, and what I miss the most right now is freedom.
One of my co-workers
describes Palacios as a “beautiful prison.” That sums up the place nicely. The
little town is a short boat ride away from Batalla, the Garifuna community
where road access ends. But the two villages feel completely different.
There's a gorgeous lagoon
just steps away from the main road through Palacios – which is to say, the dirt
path that passes for a road because it's just large enough for the handful of locals who have motorcycles or quads – and
all kinds of palm-tree wilderness and rivers to explore behind the town. Were
this any other land, I’d be rustling up a kayak to explore the lagoon, or
happily walking for hours to look for birds, butterflies, and maybe a monkey if
I was lucky.
But this is Honduras,
and the Moskitia is where much of the cocaine from Colombia arrives to begin
its journey north. I don’t know if I’d really be taking my life in my hands by
going out for a ramble, but everybody who lives here seems to think I would be.
I’m going to take their word for it.
And so I stay put,
doing the five-minute walk between the hotel and my organization’s little
office twice a day and nothing more. Today I stood on the tiny office lawn and
looked longingly out across the lagoon. Tonight I stood on the hotel balcony
and did the same. That’s about as adventurous as it gets here.
There’s much talk about
reigniting tourism in the area, which apparently disappeared after the 2009
coup. It could be a beautiful thing for everyone, given that there’s so much
nature to enjoy here and so many locals who need jobs.
But somebody’s going
to have to bring the region’s narco-traficantes to the table for a discussion
before that could ever happen. It simply isn’t safe to invite tourists into
this part of the country right now. In my opinion the security warnings for
travel in Honduras are ridiculously overblown for much of the country, but even
I think it would be a big mistake to have tourists rambling around at will in
the Moskitia these days.
One recent afternoon, my co-workers and I nervously boarded our little boat after a visit to one of the villages while scary men carrying giant guns unloaded boxes at the same tiny dock. I don't know what was in the boxes, but I could take a reasonable guess. As for police presence, there are 25,500 people living in the massive region that makes up the municipalities of Juan Francisco Bulnes and Brus Laguna, and just five police.
It’s not that the
narco-traficantes are gunning for tourists, of course. They’ve got way bigger
things on their mind. From what I know of them, which is not much, they keep
very much to themselves and have no obvious desire to kill a passing stranger.
But they don’t like surprises. I have a
feeling that a bunch of happy gringos stumbling into the wrong place at the
wrong time would not end happily. All it would have taken in that situation at the dock would have been one crazy tourist to try to sneak in a photo, and you'd be reading in the papers the next day about the boatload of travellers gunned down in broad daylight. The men who work in the Moskitia have big,
big guns, no fear of the police, and are no shrinking violets when it comes to
resolving a problem through violence.
Narco-traficantes have
been active in this region for a long time, but the locals say they’ve really
come to own the place in the last three or four years. The dreamers among us might still think the
day is coming when we’ll win the “war on drugs” and that will be that for the
industry, but I’m of a more pragmatic nature and suspect that cocaine
trafficking is not only here to stay, but in fact is creating a new social
class in Honduras. All those glitzy, pricey malls in Tegucigalpa can’t just be
for the old money in the country.
That's not to say that
tourism development in the Moskitia is out of the question. It just can’t be
done without the cooperation of the narco-traficantes. If it’s possible to
strike deals between rival Latin American gangs to reduce violence, as has
happened in El Salvador, then it’s possible to imagine cartel leaders being
invited to share their thoughts on how tourism and their own industry might co-exist
in the Moskitia. The handful of hardy tour groups still operating down here
would also have a lot of insight on a problem that has to be worrying for them,
too.
It really is a
wondrous region: three strong indigenous cultures; a biosphere reserve that’s
on the UNESCO World Heritage list; birds and animals galore; miles and miles of
sandy Caribbean beach without a soul in sight. I wouldn’t call it untouched –
too much illegal tree-cutting, trafficking in wildlife, and garbage lying around to earn that description – but it certainly is
authentic. And such potential.
But first things
first. Truce first, tourism to follow. Until then, be very, very careful about where you point that camera.